Lowri Colombia’s sprawling capital is located right in the heart of the country and it is huge! Home to ~7.5 million people it is one of the largest cities in South America.
Naturally, there is lots to explore, which is why we have put together our Ultimate Guide to Bogota, Colombia.
This city is a fantastic starting point on any travellers journey to Colombia. Just begging to be discovered here is a fascinating history, delicious food and the most incredible street art.
We were surprised on our journey to learn of many travellers skipping Bogota entirely! Medellín definitely gathers more attention in the backpacker community (perhaps rightly so) but we would argue that a few days in Bogota is an absolute must on a Colombian adventure.
What to do
Being self-declared ‘savvy budget backpackers’, we are always up for anything that provides a lot of ‘bang for your buck’! Luckily there are a lot of ‘free’ tours in Bogota that do just that.
Free Walking Tour
There are a number of companies offering free walking tours in Bogota. After some research we opted for Beyond Colombia. We were not disappointed.
Our tour guide Santiago was friendly, knowledgeable and very enthusiastic to share his country with us. He delved into the country’s history of geography, politics and, of course, crime.
We spent two hours exploring the city’s sights. This included museums, monuments and several sights of historical and cultural importance. I swear I was hooked on his every word!
A welcome break from the country’s dark history was found in the form of chica. Apparently, you can not come to Colombia and not try it.
Made of fermented corn, this interesting drink is popular throughout most of South America. As it’s alcoholic, we didn’t need much convincing to have a taste.
Luckily chica is now made slightly differently compared with it’s initial creation… Drinking chewed, regurgitated corn fermented in spit does not epitomise my idea of a refreshing beverage. You?
A hidden bonus at the end of our tour was that we got to collect a free emerald! It may not have been something out of Romancing the Stone (if you haven’t yet seen it, I encourage it), but it was a fantastic memorabilia in our eyes (and easy to carry in our backpacks!).
Free Grafitti Tour
Another free walking tour! Beginning in La Candalaria’s Parque de Los Periodistas, the Bogota Graffiti Tour was also well worth doing.
Clearly it’s very popular as even in quiet season we were two of 25 guests! This however was not in any way a hindrance on our experience.
We again had a very enthusiastic guide who was keen to show us the hidden treasures of Bogota’s streets.
The benefit of doing a tour such as this with a guide, is the insider knowledge on what the artist was trying to say. Basically the story behind it.
It definitely made us have a deeper appreciation for these elaborate pieces.
Interestingly, several of the works depict a political agenda. Many highlighting, and in some cases mocking, the past and present corruption within the government.
As well as admiring the creative talent on display, we also got an insight into the culture of the graffiti artists here, how it came about and the issues they face now.
We were told a heart-wrenching story of a 16 year old artist shot dead by police whilst caught in the act and the escalating horror as they attempted to cover it up. The outrage that followed as the truth unfolded is what led to street art actually being legalised within the city.
Recently however the government has changed it’s stance on this culture of street art placing it under threat. Apparently, murals are now regularly being painted over.
But it’s clear they will not go quietly as artists from around the globe use this city’s streets as their canvas.
Bogota Food Tour
You may think we’ve gone a bit overboard on the free tours but it just had to be done. Especially now that there’s food involved.
This tour (like the first walking tour) was also led by Beyond Colombia, so we knew it would be great! We were told to arrive hungry, which we did.
Over the course of a few hours we ate empanadas, ajiaco, obleas (a sweet wafer sandwich) and pandebonos fresh out the oven.
And hot chocolate with cheese. Which is just as strange as it sounds.
Rhys was also happy to finally sample some freshly brewed Colombian coffee. We were shown a number of different filtration techniques, highlighting just how seriously they take they take their coffee here.
You could totally do your own thing here and hunt down a few places to try the local dishes. It would undoubtedly still be great. But we couldn’t knock our guides enthusiasm for food which I swear made everything taste even better. He even gave us tips for food in Peru!
Hike Monserrate
Monserrat’s base is a short walk from the Candelaria district where most hostels are located. If you’re feeling up to it, you can hike right up to the top! Just be aware that it is a 510m climb (1,650ft) from an already slightly challenging 2,640m (8,660ft).
We had every intention to walk. But I blame the altitude. And my hangover which was only worsened at those heights.
So rather than attempt the arduous journey uphill, we instead opted for the much less challenging funicular which set us back just 8,000 COP ($3 USD) each. If you’re going to judge though at least note that we did walk down.
Note: We had read reviews about safety concerns along the trail up but on a Sunday morning when we went it was bustling with locals and visitors alike! A good day to do it, it seems, if you have any concerns.
Even not hiking, I still felt the affects of the altitude at the top. I guess that’s what you get for spending your life living at sea level! It’s crazy to think that at the top you’re over 3,000m/10,000ft high!
At the top, it was chaotic with people all on their way to Sunday church.
In addition to the church was a restaurant and small café to grab a snack. But we just sat and soaked up the view.
We recommend gathering your energy while you can as even the walk down saw us had to stop and catch our breath a little.
See a Cirque show
Okay, so this one might seem a bit random because it kind of is, I’ll admit. Regardless, I wanted to include it after we got to see a show in Bogota thanks to our friends who work for cirque.
Cirque du Soleil’s South/Central American show, ‘Septmodia‘, was based on the famous Argentinian rock band Soda Stereo. It genuinely was spectacular!
Having been privileged enough to witness a few Cirque shows over my life, I think it might be impossible to be disappointed. They are just mind-blowing!
Septmodia contained all the jaw-dropping stunts you would expect from Cirque de Soleil teamed with the vibe you were at a rock concert. I could have watched it a hundred times I swear!
Rock Climbing in Suesca
We ended up staying in Bogota a bit longer than first planned and so used the opportunity to visit further afield.
Getting to Suesca
The small town of Suesca is about an hour bus ride our of Bogota and is a hub for climbers. Having climbed a few times in the past, Rhys and I were super keen to check it out.
After researching this ‘climbers paradise’ online, we booked ourselves into El Nomada Hostel. It had good reviews and offered a decently-priced package for a one night stay and afternoon of climbing with all the equipment, plus a guide.
We paid just 120,000 COP ($42 USD) each. Bargain!
Getting to Suesca proved the hardest part, or more accurately, navigating Bogota’s Terminal Norte was! Thank you world for the helpfulness of friendly strangers!
The bus journey took us just over an hour and cost just 6,000 COP ($3 USD) each, one way.
Note: We had to actually disembark before reaching Suesca’s centre. In this instance we told the driver we were going to ‘Las Rocas’ so he could advise when we arrived. When in doubt, always ask the locals!
When we arrived, check-in for the hostel was done from a small café along the road. Here we were given the key and instructions to find the hostel, a 5 minute walk away. The climbing shop was next door to the café which is where we returned to after dropping off our bags.
Las Rocas
Spoiled yet again with our own private guide, we were kitted up and off within 45 minutes of arrival!
It was quickly evident why the entrada de Las Rocas is a mecca for climbers. After just a few minutes walk we reached the beginning of ‘the crag’, the length of which offers an impressive 400 plus climbing routes of varying difficulty.
We did numerous climbs along several routes, each increasing in difficulty. While it was awesome to have our guide Jaimie all to ourselves, it did mean less breaks between climbs. After a long 5 hours, we were shattered! However it was the dark and rain that finally forced us to call it a day.
Tip: Bring snacks and layers. We were starving by the end but I only wish I had brought more clothes as I was freezing between climbs.
The hostel itself was more than decent. A spacious garden where campers could pitch and even complimentary yoga mats and slack lines to use!
The restaurant there was cheap and offered simple, tasty food. I adored their savoury ham & béchamel sauce crepe. So much so, I ordered it again for breakfast!
My advice here is quit while you’re ahead. My second crepe, while tasting delicious, gave me my worst (albeit only) case of food poisoning in South America. I was so grateful to not be sharing a room that night back in Bogota. Maybe stick to their chocolate croissants for breakfast…
What to eat in Bogota
Other than the typical local fare as highlighted on the food tour we took, there are plenty of tasty budget options to be found.
For a cheap and cheerful almuerzo, make your way to the food court downtown near to Plaza Bolívar. The place we chose wasn’t the best but for 9,000COP ($3) each we weren’t too fussed. Plus there were a lot of options then and we just chose poorly.
If you find yourself in the Chapinero district there were a couple of good options. We stumbled across a simplistic, almost hole-in-the-wall Asian restaurant serving up massive portions of tasty stir-fries. And we have to give a mention to Stromboli for it’s epic deep-dish pizzas.
Bogota’s Zona Rosa region, near where we stayed, had a ton of options but was not quite as budget-friendly. More upscale vacation style than backpacking on a shoe-string budget.
One such place was Andre’s Steakhouse. A crazy restaurant-come-nightclub that had a different theme on each of it’s four floors. We enjoyed upbeat entertainment and some of the most delicious steak we have ever eaten! This would have been out of our budget had it not been for friends in the city.
For comical value, I have to also mention a British pub we visited called ‘London’s Calling’. Not our typical draw but after 5 years outside the UK we were allowed to be a little nostalgic. Plus they promised the best, authentic fish & chips.
Despite even reading reviews online that backed this claim, we discovered it was total nonsense! It was so hilariously off point that it made us laugh and at least the beer was good.
Lastly, my favourite restaurant chain in Colombia. And maybe even the world. Crepes & Waffles .
We were first introduced to this restaurant by friends in Cartagena. Before I then proceeded to google how far we were from one numerous times throughout our travels. Budget-friendly and delicious, you can’t miss out.
I did develop a slight obsession with their amazing pannecook’s, savoury crepes and don’t even get me started on their ice-creams!
Where to stay in Bogota
So we were pretty spoiled during our time in Bogota. Our friends at Cirque du Soleil offered us the use of a spare hotel room they had at the NH Bogota Hotel near the Zona Rosa. The hotel and location was fantastic but not quite backpacker/budget-friendly.
Had it not been for our friend’s generosity however, we almost certainly would have stayed in the La Candelaria region. Casa Bellavista and the Masaya Hostel are definitely worth checking out.
Tip: The streets around La Candelaria are bustling in the day but become very quiet at night and thefts are not uncommon. When out in the evening we would follow main roads with busy traffic or travel in groups.
How to get to Bogota
Bogota is one of South America’s largest travel hubs. There are many direct flights here from the States and other countries within the continent. Avianca Airlines offer reasonable flight prices and from our experience were a decent airline.
Already being in Colombia, we made our way to the capital via bus. A 7 hour, overnight journey from San Gil cost us just 29,000COP (US$10). We had failed to find tickets online but we had been fortunate to have been able to buy these tickets directly at our hostel in San Gil.
Another popular route in and out of Bogota is between Medellín. A 10 hour bus journey to here set us back around 62,000COP (US$22). We did manage to find this one online via Busbud which typically costs more but can be reassuring to get organised in advance.
We hope our Ultimate Guide to Bogota, Colombia will prove fruitful to fellow backpackers and travellers looking to visit this incredible city. Please feel free to comment below and let us know some of your favourite things to do in Bogota on a budget.
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