Lowri Peru’s ancient Inca city of Machu Picchu is arguably one of the most popular destinations in South America. Crowned one of the ‘New Seven Wonders of the World‘, it is understandably on a huge number of travellers’ bucket lists.
This is why once we had decided we would be going to Peru, we knew we had to visit Machu Picchu.
We hadn’t realised just how many routes there were to Machu Picchu!
The options
The Inca Trail: Without doubt, the most popular and well-known route to Machu Picchu.
This 4 day trek spans 40 kilometers and is supposed to be unreal. However this needs to be booked months in advance. And that’s not even for peak season! So we already knew this option was off the table off us.
The Salkantay Trek: For those who miss out on the Inka Trek, this route appears to be the next best thing. In it’s own right it is branded one of the best hikes in the world. This is what we had initially thought of doing, when we were unaware of alternative options.
The moment I realised that this route involved a high altitude 74km hike over 5 days, I knew this was not for us. If we were fit and prepared, then maybe. But we weren’t. Plus we still had our Colca Canyon trek fresh in our minds, which had been a good reality check.
The Lares Trek: Typically done over 2 or 3 days, this trek is a relatively short but still tough journey. Perks of this trek are said to be the quieter trails, the stunning scenery and gaining a true cultural insight into Andean cultures.
Inca Jungle Tour: A last minute option presented to us which was right up our street. More on this 4-day adventure below, although note it can be done as just 2 days.
Bus + Train: A great option for those who are unable to join a trek or tour. The quickest method by far, note this is also the least cost-effective route. The train alone can cost upwards of $200 USD.
Book online
The obvious one is to book online in advance. It is undoubtedly the best way to guarantee a spot on a particular tour. Especially if there is a preferred date in mind.
Book direct
As we arrived in Cusco during low season (mid November) we weren’t too concerned at having nothing booked. We had heard from other backpackers that the best way to get the best deal is to simply turn up and book last minute. Something I might be a bit more reluctant to do during peak season.
There are a lot of tour operators around Cusco. Our plan was to check out as many as possible to find the right fit for us and still be budget friendly.
During our search we found that the level of standard varied quite massively. We stopped by a couple of operators, hopeful about their options but were instantly sold by a travel agents we came across on Plaza El Regocijo.
The staff were friendly, professional and, unbelievably, they offered the best deal!
Their standard 4 day/3 night Inca Jungle Tour included the guide, mountain biking, hiking, the entrance fee to Machu Picchu, all of our meals and real beds to sleep in.
Be sure to haggle
A last-minute tour was going for $250 USD.
Luckily we knew by now how this game worked and we had a bit more confidence to play it. So, after a bit of negotiating, we managed to get the agent down to a more budget-friendly $160 USD.
The rafting and zip-lining are optional add-ons and so were an additional cost. But don’t entertain not doing them; do you really want to sit and miss out while everyone else in your group is off having fun?
To book these extras there and then cost us just $30 USD extra, each, for both activities. The alternative was paying $40 each on the day. It’s a no-brainer!
We had booked onto the next available tour which began 2 days later. Excitement overload!!
Inca Jungle Tour to Machu Picchu
Day 1
Pick-up from our hostel was at 5.45am. First on board, we soon discovered we were two of just five doing the full 4-day tour, with one backpacker doing the 2-day tour.
Our first stop for breakfast allowed us all to get acquainted, which is always a nerve-wracking prospect. Now don’t get me wrong, 90% of a trip is what you make it but it never hurts to have great travel companions! And we were in luck.
In total we were 2 Welsh, 2 Dutch, a Hungarian and a Swiss. Plus our awesome Peruvian guide, Jair.
Our tour began at the highest part of our trip. 4,400m up in the mountains at the Abra Malaga Pass.
Mountain biking
Mountain biking was the first scheduled activity. Specifically, downhill mountain biking. 49km of it!
The scenery was epic and the ride smooth sailing (much appreciated by someone like myself with limited confidence on a bike). The sheer drops off the edge of the road however, are enough to make anyone’s stomach turn.
We did the cycling in three parts, each taking around 45 minutes. By the end we had dropped down to an altitude of just 1,200m.
Reunited at the bottom we were loaded back onto our bus for a 45 minute ride to the town of Santa Maria.
We were served a feast for lunch at a quaint local restaurant. On the menu was semolina soup with garlic bread followed by chicken with rice, lentils and a massive salad with avocado. It was delicious!
White-water rafting
Filled to the brim, the next part of our Inca jungle tour to Machu Picchu was the optional addition to go white-water rafting.
Rhys and I were particularly excited to be back on the rapids after our experience in San Gil, Colombia. While Peru’s Urubamba River was much more tame, the Class II and III rapids still made for a fun and exhilarating experience!
The only downside was the mosquitos. My legs were devoured! I was so grateful for our better-prepared travel mate who kindly shared his AfterBite with me.
Tip: I’m sure this one comes as no surprise: pack insect repellent and some form of itch-relief!
Hiking
After a very short bus ride, we were dropped to begin the first leg of our hike. Our guide led us deep into the jungle, for over an hour uphill until we reached our accommodation for the night.
We arrived just in time, as a mighty storm rolled in and darkness fell.
Our lodgings for the night seemed simplistic on the surface but it was idyllic! The location, the isolation, the fact that we had our own room.
It was definitely more than we had anticipated. And we had it all to ourselves!
An added bonus that we had not realised, is that many other tour groups do not actually spend the night in the jungle. Instead they stay in Santa Maria and begin their hike in the morning. A lucky win for us I’d say!
Despite being super hot and sweaty on arrival, the ice-cold showers were still tough to endure.
Dinner was much more welcome. A hearty pasta soup followed by my favourite, lomo saltado. Washed down with a couple of beers, it capped the perfect end to an incredible first day.
Day 2
Having expected an early rise, we were surprised to meet (relatively) late for breakfast at 8am. This was again, we were told, because we had made the hike the evening before. Many other tours did have an early start.
No complaining our end!
This additional time gave Jair an opportunity to educate us on the lives of the residents here which included a fascinating show-and-tell.
He highlighted a few of the locally cultivated vegetables such as potatoes and the delicious ‘pumpkin jungle’ we had enjoyed in our soup the night before. We saw some of their homemade medicines and ointments, essential given there is no hospital near by.
As our continuing journey would lead us along a portion of the Inca Trail, Jair decided to indulge in a little arts & crafts on our faces. Using the pigment of crushed berries he decorated us as the Inca’s once did.
Awesome views
As if there weren’t already enough positives to having stayed in the jungle, our head start meant we got to initially enjoy all the stunning scenery to ourselves!
Since day 2 was all about hiking, we braced ourselves for a challenge.
Fortunately we only had 30 minutes of uphill climbing to reach the top of the mountain. Then it was ‘Peruvian flat’; meaning a lot of ups and downs.
After a spectacular morning we stopped at a lodge for lunch and had our expectations blown away yet again.
We were served three delicious courses which involved a ton of bread and guacamole, quinoa soup and a very saucy spaghetti. A perfect refuel!
Thanks to our decent pace that morning, it meant we had the opportunity to relax and digest after lunch. They had hammocks and a dog so no one was going to object.
Back on the road we only had another two and a half fours before reaching the Cocalmayo Hot Springs, the end of our hike.
The hike was far from strenuous although there were some hilarious bridge crossings and a very questionable suspended cart ride over the river.
Passed the river, it was a quick walk through a tunnel and we were at the springs!
Hot springs
The multiple pools all have varying degrees of heat but after a beer we headed for the hottest one. It was heavenly! Except for my poor mosquito bites which began to flare up from the heat.
After 2 hours relaxing we were collected and taken to the nearby town of Sant Theresa for our second night. This evening we were all given private en-suites!
Dinner was at a local restaurant serving delicious ‘pumpkin-jungle’ soup with a main of chicken, rice and veg. Exhausted, we were all back in our rooms by 9pm.
Day 3
Our day started over a pancake breakfast (yum!) after re-grouping at the same restaurant. This morning we would all be zip-lining.
Zip-lining
On arrival at the centre we were all super thankful when the dark clouds that had been spitting all morning finally began to clear. And just in time!
We got to do a total of five ziplines. As usual, I was a little nervous. This anxiety increased ten-fold when I was told we had to be our own brakes using a pair of heavy duty gloves!!
Doing so many ziplines meant we got to do a variety of different positions going down: standard, upside-down or head-first superman! After the initial fear wore off, it was tons of fun.
After the fifth and final zipline the rush continued with a 200m suspension bridge walk.
I don’t like heights but this suspension bridge over the tree-tops wasn’t too bad. We did later drive under another that other tours must do which was way more terrifying (thankfully not us though!).
Hydro Electria
Activities over, we once again boarded our bus and headed for Hydro Electrica. This is where the majority of routes all merge for the final leg to Machu Picchu.
From Hydro Electrica it was a 2 hour (flat) walk to Aguas Calientes. We stopped early on route for a quick lunch. Yet again, super tasty. There was even guac again!
The scenery along the tracks was just remarkable. Despite passing other backpackers on route, we really felt like we were in the middle of nowhere.
Our friend Jerone took his walk to the next level, listening to the Jurassic Park theme song! Literally since then, Rhys and I hum it aloud when we are (alone) in the wilderness, ha!
Aguas Calientes
On arrival to Aguas Calientes we were shown to our private rooms, yet again, before gratefully enjoying a few free hours to explore.
Of course this meant beers. And, as if we hadn’t already eaten enough, pizza!
The last dinner
We reunited with our guide, Jair, for dinner that evening at a lovely second-floor restaurant overlooking the central square. There was even an option to select from a set menu.
It was a bittersweet evening as we had to say farewell to our guide Jair. He was unable to continue with us the next morning as he had to return home for his mums birthday (such occasions are taken quite seriously in Peru). We did confirm with him that they would be eating cuy (guinea pig) to celebrate.
Several beers later and a sneaky pit-stop to a bakery for treats made for a relatively late bedtime for us at 9.30pm.
Day 4
The final ascent
Today was the day! This is what we were here for: Machu Picchu.
We were begrudgingly woken by our alarms at 3.45am. Bare in mind, it could have been worse… I should therefore mention that Rhys & I had decided to cop-out of the early morning hike the day before upon discovering the rest of our group already had bus tickets.
So we followed suit joining the bus queue at 4.40am, feeling just a little guilty. However the hammering rain that stopped as we stepped outside made me feel we had made the right decision.
It was 5.20am when a fleet of buses arrived and began to fill by the masses. Our aim was to be ready for the 6am opening of the gates! However, this didn’t happen.
I try not to be too negative but this was the only frustrating point of our whole tour.
Our new guide, Edgar, (who we had met the evening before) was nowhere to be found. He finally made an appearance at 6.30am having coaxed more people into joining our guided-tour of the ruins.
Now 15 people, we refused to let our annoyance hinder our experience as we crossed the threshold.
Machu Picchu
I think after the initial jaw-drop, our first words were, “Wow!”.
The site was much larger than I think any of us had actually anticipated. Not such a bad thing given there would be 3,000 people visiting the site that day. And that’s just low season! In peak season we were told Machu Picchu receives up to 10,000 visitors per day!
To combat the chaos of our crowds there is a one-way system around the ruins. Following this, visitors can exit and enter multiple times in the allotted time frame. Ours allowed us entry from 6am to midday.
A guided tour
Our first hour at Machu Picchu was guided by Edgar. This included a basic introduction to the history of the Inca Empire and the significance of particular buildings.
This included the original entrance, sun dial, Temple of the Sun, and Temple of the Condor where it is believed human sacrifices took place.
The open slots on top of the wall would have held beams that supported the roof
It was beyond fascinating!
Self-guided
After the guided portion we had time to explore at our own leisure. We of course all made a beeline for the viewpoint that offered the best photos.
And of course, many more scenic vistas.
While being snap-happy, be vigilant and watch out for stampeding llamas!
Saying goodbye
An add-on when visiting Machu Picchu, is to climb Huayna Picchu. Two of our group had booked for the hike and all 3 had tickets for the train that afternoon. So this is where we finally parted ways.
Note: If you want to climb Huayna Picchu then this must be booked months in advance. It’s also not the most budget-friendly hike at a pretty steep $50 USD.
Rhys and I, on way too tight a budget for the train, opted to hike down the mountain (at least we got to experience it one way). We made it back along the tracks from Aguas Calientes to Hydro Electrica for our 3pm bus ride back to Cusco.
What a journey it had been!
A memorable experience
We literally can’t recommend a visit to Machu Picchu enough! In particular, we do recommend the Inca Jungle Tour to Machu Picchu for travellers who want something a little more diverse than just hiking.
One final tip we will share though, is that while travelling in the quiet/shoulder season definitely has it’s perks, you must be prepared for less-than-ideal weather. Meaning rain, and lots of it! Thankfully we were lucky on this trip but it’s always something to factor in mind.
Enjoy adventuring!
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